The Inca Trail Trek to Machu Picchu

Inca Trail trek starting point varies from 27 to 35 miles long passing through high mountain desert, cloud forest, and mountain passes with elevations of nearly 14,000 feet and an orchid-rich jungle before reaching the "Lost City of the Incas".

You look down at deep river gorges and up at snow-clad mountain peaks. There are moments when you may be the only person on the trail and yet feel as though there are other beings there with you. You may feel a spirituality of place, an intense awareness of time and place.

The Inca Trail is a highly popular way of getting to Machu Picchu. You may walk it alone with a group or with a guided tour complete with porters and meals provided. When I first walked it, the journey was definitely an expedition with little creature comforts. However you choose to make the trip you'll see splendors of nature. In addition to other charges for tours, guides and equipment there is a fee to walk the Trail, but it includes a day at Machu Picchu. Bring clothing for cold and hot temperatures, sturdy walking shoes, and enough drinking water for the three day walk.

There are some basic rules to walking the Trail enforced by the Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary police. Many of these you'll know from trekking elsewhere.

• Camp only in the areas provided.
• Do not pollute the areas with waste material human or otherwise. Pack your garbage out.
• No fires allowed.
• Do not pick flora.
• Do not hunt the fauna.

Although some visitors make the journey in three days, the trail is extremely strenuous, even for physically fit people. The combination of the climb, plus the altitude, makes a four day trip less arduous. A typical four day walk would be as follows:

Day One - Leave the train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes at the Km88 stop. Here you will purchase your trekking permit for Peruvian soles, available only at the visitor center. Cross the suspension bridge over the Urubamba to begin your journey. The trail is initially easy climbing toward the little settlement of Huayllabamba where you can buy refreshments. The trail next becomes steep, becoming more so as you climb higher.

You'll see ruins of Llactapata on your way to the meadow under the First Pass where you'll camp at Llulluchapampa high above the tree line. You'll have excellent views back down the valley. In fact, at some of the better-known spots along the trail, you might have to wait your turn at the more scenic vantage points.

Day Two - Get an early start for the steepest part of the climb to First Pass, Warmiwanuqa or Dead Woman Pass at 4200 m. (13,860 ft). Climb this at your own pace. I found this to be the hardest part and it was difficult to take in enough oxygen. I thought I was in good shape, but at this point I was puffing like a steam engine and glad of the chance to sit down, relax for a bit to enjoy the scenery and take some great photos.

Next, the trail goes downhill to the Pacaymayo River as steeply as it came up. You'll begin the ascent to the Second Pass or Runcuracay Pass at 3850 m. (12,705 ft) and pass the ruins at Runkuracay . You'll see the ovoid shaped building called the Egg Hut. The view is great from here, too. Once over Second Pass you'll come across the ruins at Sayacmarca, Inaccessible or Dominant Town, at 3707 m. (12,234 feet) which is a good place to stop for a breather.

From there you'll keep on downhill to the valley bottom go through some forest and then go through a 20 m. (66 feet) long tunnel that the Incas made through the rock. You'll find impressive evidence of Inca road construction with its six feet wide and carefully constructed stone-paved trails. The climb to Third Pass is a gentle one but it becomes quite narrow as it winds along the ledge. This unnerved me a bit, but others don't seem to mind at all. At the top of the pass is a flat area which makes a good camping spot if it is late in the day.

Camping for the night can be do-it-yourself, or you can take a fully supported tour with pre-selected campsites and a camp staff that sets up and clears camp as well as doing all the cooking. Either way, if you awaken early enough to see the dawn, and the morning is clear, you'll have great views of the Cordillera Vilcabamba. You'll also allow yourself enough time for sightseeing later in the day.

Next stop on the trail are the ruins at Puyopatamarca, or Cloud Level Town, where water runs through carved stone channels down a long series of steps. When I was there, the channels ran very full, the sound of rushing water keeping time to the excitement pulsing through me to walk these steps, built by the Incas, all the way down to the base of the mountain.

From Puyopatamarca, you'll be able to see the terraces of Wiñay Huayna photo, and the Urubamba river far below with the hydroelectric power station (seemingly out of place amidst all the splendid reminders of the Inca empire). At the bottom of the steps, you'll find the hostel to stay the night. Take the time to see the many varieties of orchids, explore the ruins here, and marvel at the terraces on the hill. The Incas used every bit of land for agricultural purposes which explains why so many cities and communities are perched on the sides of steep mountains.

Day Four - There is one more pass to cross before reaching Machu Picchu. Most travelers get up very early to hike the three and a half miles dirt trail to Intipunko "Gateway of the Sun" at 2685 m. (8,860 ft). The pleasure of seeing the sun rise with your first glimpse of the domed peak of Huayna Picchu and the lost City of the Incas is something you'll never forget. The trail from here is rocky but easy. You'll have spectacular views along the way.

You'll be rewarded for The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu early since you will have to contend with fewer tourists until they arrive about 10:00 AM. Consult your guidebooks as you tour the magnificent temples, terraced hillsides, irrigation channels, fountains, and elaborate stone work and chambers of unknown purpose. Livestock grazing among the ruins made the sight of the ruins a little more domestic. I remember sitting on an overlook and wondering why the Spaniards never came here.

When more people appear, head for Huayna Picchu, the mountain right above the ruins. At 2727 m. (9,000 ft) it is called the Young Mountain. It's a short, steep climb but you'll be rewarded for your efforts with picture perfect views. If you are not spending the night outside the ruins you can either take a bus down to Aguas Caliente or continue by foot down the trail. It will take about an hour and you may have time to enjoy a thermal hot bath in town before taking the evening train to Cusco. For a faster trip get off the train in Ollantaytambo and take the colectivo into Cusco.